BSA Course Day 18 - Messene & Bassae

Weather: 30 degrees & sunny

Step count: 11,084

Suitcases packed and on the road again, we spent the morning at Messene where tutor Matt gave a us a brief history before guiding us around the impressive site. Homer's 'rocky Ithome', situated beneath the mountain of the same name, was inhabited from the Bronze Age, abandoned after destruction by Spartans, then re-established as Messene after the Spartan defeat at the Battle of Leuctra in the 4th century BCE.

Tutor Matt lectures at Messene. Photo credits: British School at Athens

It was nearly time for me and my roommate to give our student presentation, which was all about whether anastylosis - the reconstruction or restoration of ancient monuments using the original architectural elements and remains, based on original designs, perhaps incorporating appropriate new materials in an archaeologically responsible way - helps or hinders our understanding of ancient Messene.

The Parthenon is a great example of anastylosis, as we saw first-hand how much effort goes in to sympathetically using modern methods and materials to reproduce elements such as clamps for fixing the recently quarried Pentelic marble, staying as true as possible to the original building.

The difficulty comes with deciding what is 'ancient', and what period to prioritise, as again we have seen how many different time periods are discernible at each site. The work at Messene has been described as one of the most ambitious and impressive archaeological restoration programs in Greece, and the current director of excavations, in post since 1986, chose to base the restoration on the writings of Greek travel writer Pausanias and thus concentrate on the classical, Hellenistic and Roman archaeology.

Exploring the remains was the perfect distraction from the presentation nerves, as thanks to the reconstruction work we were able to gain a sense of how the theatres, colonnaded agora, numerous temples in various stages of restoration and the huge athletic complex of gymnasium and stadium, all recognisable from Pausanias' Description of Greece, may have looked when he visited in the second century CE.

It was interesting to see the stone tables with indentations for measuring grain and other commodities at the side of the stoa near the agora, the centre for trade, as well as the beautiful Roman mosaics which decorated the marketplace floors; such a contrast to the harsh reality of the purpose of the buildings where animals would have been brought for sale and slaughter.

Most of the sprawling site is visible from the entrance point above, as it was built to follow the slopes and curves of the mountain. So it was a real surprise to see the stadium and athletic complex reveal themselves as we descended below the commercial centre.

Stadium and gymnasium, Messene

The gymnasium buildings alongside the stadium were fascinating, with channels for running water through the washrooms (which would have been cold when used originally by the Greeks and although plumbing for warm water was available to the Romans they kept the facilities basic) and and even a membership list at the entrance! Sadly I didn't get a picture of that, but I was over the moon to see the gaming boards carved into the steps of the gatehouse, where the men would have gathered to play, passing time waiting for events or for a free space in the gym.

(1) Gymnasium, (2) Washing troughs for running water (3) Propylon

You can read more about the boards in a post on my favourite blog 'Material Musings', written by none other than tutor Matt himself, here.

Gaming board, propylon steps

Pausanias's writings about Messene also described the tomb of the hero Aristomenes, which can still be seen today in place at the end of the stadium, a strange choice perhaps for a burial place. Yet contemplating the memorial from the running track with the dramatic landscape stretching beyond, I could imagine athletes in their prime looking at the memorial whilst waiting to race, reminded of the fleeting nature of life and inspired to strive for a sense of immortality through victory.

Stadium complex, Messene

Tomb of Aristomenes, Messene

I could have spent the whole day at Messene as there is so much to see, but presentation time had arrived. After a climb back up to where we started, trying to remain calm and composed in the midday heat whilst fighting off wasps beneath an olive tree was a challenge, but thankfully our coursemates seemed to enjoy our tag-team approach to the positives and negatives of anastylosis. We concluded that reconstruction was ultimately a help, as attracting visitors is vital to ensure continued funding for the preservation of the archaeological remains and seeing actual buildings in situ rather than ruins definitely aided our understanding of what Messene may have looked like, albeit in an indeterminate ancient past.

Stadium complex, Messene

The second stop of the day was the remote temple of Apollo at Bassae. Located high in the Arcadian mountains, 1000m above sea level, the arduous journey to reach the extra-urban sanctuary would have formed part of the pilgrimage to show devotion to the god. And arduous it most certainly would have been - we had to drive another 40 minutes on steep, bendy roads after spotting our target gleaming in the sun high above us.

Our first sight of the temple - can you spot it?

It is hard to believe that the the tiny speck we saw from the bus is actually the white tent which protects the temple from the elements, because on closer inspection it is immense.

Canopy covering the temple of Apollo, Bassae

The canopy is secured against the mountain winds and weather by thick cables bolted into the ground, and the covering makes the site feel very different to how it would have been perceived by those who successfully reached the shelter of the temple.

The building was dedicated to Apollo Bassitas (Apollo of the small valley), which gave the site its name) and Apollo Epikourios (Apollo the helper, likely of soldiers or against the plague). Construction was completed in the 5th century BCE, on the site of a previous archaic temple, and the sanctuary was used at least until Pausanias' 2nd century CE travels before falling into ruin, forgotten until travellers rediscovered the site in the early 19th century.

Despite the size of its covering, the temple is fairly small compared to those we had visited throughout the course, but its many unusual and unique features more than make up for what it lacks in size. We were lucky enough to be treated to another 'behind the rope' visit, and spending time inside the reconstructed temple gave us an appreciation of the interesting architecture.

The 6 x15 column structure makes it longer than typical proportions, and it is the first to display all three orders - Doric, Ionic and Corinthian - of Greek architecture. The use of rough local limestone for the external architecture reflected its bleak mountain surroundings, with marble used for the more decorative elements. Damage to the surviving masonry suggests natural destruction by earthquake rather than conflict.

Inside the cella. Photo credit: British School at Athens

The Ionic columns inside the cella were fixed into the walls, with two at the end angled inwards. This may have been a practical decision to maximise space, but is unusual nonetheless, especially as the column bases are fully circular.

The dimensions of the Ionic style frieze, now displayed in the British Museum in London, indicate that it was placed to face into the cella, the temple's central chamber, rather than around the outside; a design choice that may have been dictated by the harsh weather conditions. I have since visited the frieze in its purpose-built room, the same size as the cella, which gives an appreciation of the compact central space and a close-up view of the deeply carved and dramatic reliefs of mythological battles, perhaps designed to heighten the contrast between light and shadow.

The Bassae Frieze at the British Museum. Photo credit: Mike Peel (www.mikepeel.net)

There is no evidence for the placement of a cult statue of Apollo within the temple, but the location of one central Corinthian column - thought to be the earliest known example of that order and documented by the early modern travellers but since lost - has led scholars to suggest that the column itself may have been the focus of worship.

The temple entrance faces North, rather than the usual East to meet the sunrise, which may be due to the limitations of the rocky mountain site or a deliberate decision to face toward Delos where Apollo 'from the North' and his sister Artemis were born. We were told that ley lines or magnetic forces may have been responsible for the choice of orientation, but I was slightly sceptical about this, particularly as we later found out that our tutors had 'developed our critical thinking skills' through a series of pranks - some subtle, some not so much! - woven through the lectures and talks. Later however, after arriving in Olympia, one of the shopkeepers delighted in telling us about the mystery of the temple and how it realigns itself if attempts are made to View View into the cella and focal column base move it.

There are also some very interesting architectural features which may indicate that there were astronomic considerations in the planning and construction of the temple. A small doorway on the East side of the temple would have permitted the rays of the rising sun to enter the temple and, twice a year, at the time of each solstice, the sunlight would have fallen on a particular part of the lone Corinthian column. It has been suggested that the architecture incorporated aspects of Apollo, manipulating light in the temple dedicated to the deity associated with it, much as the frieze reliefs may have done. There are ongoing scientific studies exploring these theories, and it will be interesting to see what they reveal.

View towards the north entrance from the focal column

The east doorway

Emerging once again into the fresh air, the view across the mountains and west towards the sea is spectacular. A welcome cool breeze rustling the olive trees and the sound of distant birdsong brought a sense of peace and contentment, and another of the many moments of connection with the past that I experienced throughout the course. Standing high above the valley floor in the late afternoon sunshine, with only the sounds of nature for company, it was easy to imagine travellers to the site feeling awed by the grandeur of the setting, secure in the powerful protection of Apollo.

It seems a little sad that the tent which protects the remains of this lonely building separates it from its surroundings, and hides the stones from the sun and the stars which may have played a large part in why it was placed in the position it still occupies. But at least it preserves the intriguing architecture until restoration works are completed and it can be displayed in all its lofty glory once again. I hope to see it again one day, perhaps reunited with its frieze.

We were all tired after another long day, but the changing light over the landscape made for a truly beautiful journey down towards our final base of Olympia and I didn't want to miss a second.Thanks to the incredible skill of our driver on the many hairpin bends of the precarious mountains roads, we arrived safely just as the sun was setting.